Friends,
You’re likely familiar with the spooky Celtic traditions
that spawned Halloween. You might even be versed in the eerie amalgamation of Mesoamerican
and Catholic traditions that became el DĂa de los Muertos. Just when you
thought you’d heard them all, I’ve got a new one for you—well, the tradition is
quite old, I just expect it to be new to you. In Ecuador, an All Soul’s Day delicacy
(November 2nd) are Bread Babies –Guaguas de Pan
(pronounced wa-was). I’d never really questioned why we did it, just enjoyed
the pastries, often followed by a Colada
Morada chaser –a traditional All Soul’s Day concoction, made with 8
herbs, 5 fruits, purple corn flour,
sugar and water, which is best served hot. So, I did a little research. It
turns out the Incas mummified their dead and would bring them out of their
graves once a year to share food and colada morada as a form of showing respect
and remembering your ancestors. Of course, the Spanish would have none of this
tomb desecration. So, large loaves of bread shaped like the bound mummies began
to be used as stand-ins. With time the recipe evolved (European wheat replaced American
pumpkin as the main ingredient) and the form factor became smaller, leaving ordinary
folks like me to shrug our shoulders at the odd shape while enjoying the taste.
So, on this All Hallows’ day, enjoy a Guagua de Pan, if you’re lucky enough to find
one. If not, I think a donut would be a fine stand-in.
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